Phongsali is in the remote far north of Laos and it feels like one of the ends of the Earth. It’s so close to the Chinese border that it’s actually easier to supply it from China than from Laos, and the Chinese influence is evident in everything from the food to cigarettes in shop windows […]
Slow boat to Nong Khiaw
The slow boat to Nong Khiaw is an enchanting journey, offering just the right combination of sensational scenery, worthy discomfort, local colour and serenity. It’s probably one of the nicest river trips you can do in Laos, at least at this time of year. When I booked the ticket I asked how many people the […]
Luang Prabang
My first impression of Luang Prabang is that it’s nothing like the rest of Laos, rather it’s like most westerners imagine or want it to be. It’s well and truly on the world tourist circuit (it even has an international airport, the only other one in the country apart from the capital), and a huge […]
Road to Luang Prabang
Well that was the most memorable bus trip I’ve ever taken. It’s 230 kms by road from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang, and the journey is scheduled to take about seven hours. Do the math: that’s just over 30 kilometres an hour. The guide book recommends travellers prone to motion sickness take appropriate precautions. I […]
Vang Vieng
You have to adjust to very different concepts of acceptable risk and safety on the road in Laos. The bus ride from Vientiane to Vang Vieng was a real education about travelling here, and I can see now why you should only plan to go no more than 200 kms a day here (unless you […]
Vientiane
It’s hard to believe Vientiane is a capital city. In fact having been here for a couple of days, I still can’t really believe it… such a laid-back and slow-paced place should be a provincial town, not the administrative centre of an entire nation. But it’s relaxing atmosphere bodes well for the travels to come […]