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Best of Laos

Now that I’m at the very bottom of Laos about to head south into Cambodia, I’m encountering numerous travellers heading the other way who want to know what I think are the ‘must-see’ parts of this country. And to be honest, when I think about it there aren’t that many. But this place has a […]

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Kayaking to Cambodia

Si Phan Don (literally “four thousand islands”) is an idyllic part of the Mekong at the extreme south of Laos, on the border with Cambodia. There aren’t actually thousands of islands here but dozens, and the pace of life is dreamily slow. It has a reputation as a backpacker haven, a place where in the […]

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Pakse

I feel like I’m on the cusp of something, a transition point between what was and what will be. But it’s frustratingly hard to define beyond that… perhaps it’s best not to force it. I should just do what I do and see what comes of it. And Pakse is as good a place as […]

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Savannakhet

Soon after boarding the bus from Tha Kaek to Savannahket I mused that of all the bus journeys I’d taken so far in Laos, nothing had gone wrong. Sure there was the landfall that blocked the road for a few hours on the way to Dien Bien Phu, and yes some trips were hellish, but […]

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Tha Kaek

Tha Kaek is another sleepy provincial capital draped languidly along the eastern shore of the Mekong, where there is little to do except stroll the waterfront and relax. Are you seeing a pattern here? The Lao national emblem should be a hammock. When I arrived late yesterday I was underwhelmed – it’s nice, but hardly […]

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Kong Lo cave

Imagine the biggest, most impressive cave possible. Then double it. Then double it again. Then stretch it out reaaaallly far and run a river through the middle of it. You might now be somewhere close to understanding just how overwhelmingly huge Kong Lo cave really is. Karst formations dot the landscape of Laos and parts […]

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