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Nam Kading Research Centre

The World Conservation Society has operated a research centre on the banks of the Nam Kading river for several years, and recently they’ve opened it up to travellers who want to stay there. The guidebook mentions it and it piqued my interest, so when I saw a current brochure about the place in Vientiane I […]

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Paksan

Getting to Paksan was by far the best bus journey I’ve had so far. After a couple of weeks of being in big cities and hanging around lots of other travellers, I felt a strong urge to get away from them all as far as possible. Which made my choice of transport a no-brainer when […]

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Christmas in Vientiane

Last year I spent Christmas in Qingdao in northern China, where the highlight of the day was a decadent two and a half hour foot and body massage followed by a walk around town in near-freezing conditions. This year I’ll be spending it on a bus heading to southern Laos, and the temperature will top […]

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Travelling in Laos is never dull

Part 1 – Slow boat downriver I forgot to mention the boat trip downriver from Hat Sa near Phongsali to Muang Khua. The trip itself was less beautiful than that from Luang Prabang to Nong Khiaw, and considerably colder too. But it was a truly local journey with several interesting moments: – we started off […]

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Sitting still in Muang Khua

I love unscripted travel, where you may have an idea where you’re going but no exact plan and no schedule to stick to. Where you have the freedom to sit still for a few days if you really like a place, or take off immediately if you don’t. It’s one of the biggest reasons why […]

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Phongsali observed

The rhythms of life are gentle in this town, and not much different from that observed in smaller places across northern Laos. There is a rush hour of sorts from 7am to 8.30am, when scooters scoot and cars rumble through town as people go into their day. Walking around town after this you see families […]

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